TOPICS:
adoption
the right breed for you
dogs and cats together
neuter/spay
feeding
housetraining [litter-box]
grooming
when to seek vet care
the scratching instinct
playing
 
 
Humane Cat Care
by Anne H. Akers
 
I have had a lot of experience with companion animals (cats & dogs) over the years.  I especially connect with cats (and they with me).  I have never had problems with my pets.  I have made friends with cats even when I've been told, "That cat doesn't like anybody."   The way some animals are treated, it's no wonder some of them have a difficult time trusting humans.  I am confident, if you follow my guidelines, you and your cat(s) will have a happy, fun, and healthy relationship.  I think it is amazing that these animals allow us to share their world with us.  There are thousands of animal species on this planet, and only two species, dogs and cats, are willing to fully share a home with humans.
 
My cats are truly my friends.  We play together and nap together.  They rub me, lick me, hang out on my lap, and purr like crazy- signs of deep affection.  One of my cats loves to jump on my shoulders.  They're such a joy.  You, too can have a successful relationship with cat(s):
 
[If you wish not to follow these guidelines, then you really do not want a cat, nor do you want your cat to be a cat.  You may not even be suitable for any kind of pet.]
 
 
adopting
You can go to a cattery like a CFA-approved facility.  That's okay if you are especially attracted to a specific breed;  but, the cats most desperately in need of adoption are stray and unwanted pets.  There will be a large cross-section of personalities and breeds at shelters.  Go on-line or look in the phone book for near-by shelters.  Some are cat-only shelters, but most shelters house cats and dogs.
 
Approach the animals at the shelter (or cattery) gently.  Let them make the first moves.  Cats want to be very sure they can trust you.  Compared to dogs, it can take longer to warm up to a cat, and for the both of you to get to know each other.  Once you earn trust with a cat, it will be a wonderful companion.  With many people, something will "click" when they meet their match.  Remember, it's a two-way street.
 
<>Before bringing your new friend home:
>Have litterbox area set up.
>Have high-quality dry cat food on hand.
>Purchase some really good catnip.
Catnip is a safe "high", and the greens are good for cats' digestion.  I give my cats catnip at least once a week.
>Have feeding area set up.
>Set out sturdy scratching post(s).
>Have several toys that are specifically suitable for cats.
>If necessary, cover your upholstered furniture with  machine-washable blankets or coverlets.  Expect your cats to nap on the furniture.  If you don't want your cats on the furniture, forget the idea of adopting pets.  You're suppose to be sharing your home with your pets.  It's okay to have some limits, but hey, it's fun to hang out with your cats and dogs, so share the furniture with them!  Live a little with your four-legged friends.  It's fun!
>If the cats are not fixed yet, make plans for this. You will get this done!
>Have a reliable plan for your cats' care when you leave home for vacations.
 
specific breeds
If  you have a specific breed in mind, enter with caution.  As with similar scenarios with dog breeds, there are certain cat breeds suited for "hard-core" cat people, or people who have a lot of understanding and experience with cats.  A prime example is the exotic Siamese.  Many novice cat owners have taken in this breed for its beautiful markings.  They are indeed wonderful cats, but most people fail to fully understand them.  They have very playful, wiry personalities.  Many people do not know what to do with them, or how to interact with them.  They get frustrated, and return them to shelters, or abandon them.
 
To get to know more about specific breeds, attend a CFA cat show, or visit a CFA-approved cattery.
 
<>Breeds to avoid if you're a novice cat person-
[These breeds are for the devoted cat owner only!]
>exotic Oriental short-hairs (many varieties & colours)- loyal, but they demand much attention
>Siamese- wiry and very playful; very vocal; they will meow about most anything.
>Abyssinian- very playful; unusual in that they do not mind getting into water.  Some will get into the bathtub with their owners!
>long-haired breeds [Persian, Himalayan, Maine coon, angora, etc.]-  laid-back, beautiful, and gentle; but they require a lot of grooming.
 
<>Good choices for the less-experienced cat person:
>short-haired mutts- most make great pets, have wonderful personalities, and require minimal grooming.
>British short hair-  They interact well with humans, and only need an occasional brushing.
>American short-hair-  They are devoted companions, and enjoy being groomed occasionally.
 
one or two?
I believe owning two cats is ideal.  It's been my experience, that adopting more than one cat is favourable for the cats (and the humans).  Adopt two or more young cats at the same time.  There will be less territorial issues this way.  The most ideal situation: adopt kittens who are litter mates.  Males, females, male/female- it doesn't matter.  Two cats will make up games with each other, and they're fun to watch.  When you're away, they will keep each other entertained, saving boredom.  Though I am a big fan of adopting two (or more), one cat can be wonderful, too.  Know your limits.  Adopt 3 or 4 if you can afford it and handle it, but don't take in a dozen, unless you have adequate space and devotion.
 
dogs and cats in same household?
This can work very well.  Ideally, adopt them at the same time.  Cats and dogs can become good friends with one another.
 
 
neutering/spaying
Do not own any pets unless you "fix" them!!!!  This controls population and ultimately prevents animal abuse!  Leave the breeding to certified CFA and AKC facilities only!!  If you want your kids to see the "miracle" of birth, rent a documentary video that shows such an event.  Never breed your own kittens or puppies.  You will directly cause the inhumane treatment of cats and dogs!  A "fixed" animal will also make a superior companion for you.  Have your cat neutered/spayed around three to four months of age.
 
myths about neutering/spaying
[applies to dogs, too]
>It's too expensive.
There are vet clinics who will neuter/spay at reasonable costs.  Also you will run into much bigger costs and headaches if you allow your pet to breed.
>It will make my cat fat.
Not true!  Just feed your cat properly.
>It's good for the health of the female to have a least one litter.
Simply not true!
>I'm depriving my pet from the joy of sex.
So what?  You take away the desire; they do not miss it!  Much worse, is to bring unwanted kittens into the world who will lead horrible lives.
 
 
feeding
If possible, invest in premium cat foods.  The dry formulae are cheaper, and make for easier feeding, so start with the dry foods while your pets are kittens.
 
If you share your home with cats and dogs, keep their foods separate.  Cats and dogs have different nutritional requirements.  Dogs are more scavengers by nature, while cats are more hunters by nature.  Pet foods have been formulated accordingly, so feed your animals the right stuff.
 
Today's pet foods are accomodateing for every need.  If you discover a dietary problem, look for choices like sensitive stomach, light (for overweight cats), special urinary tract formula, and so on.  Kittens should feed on kitten formulated foods for one year.
 
Do not feed kittens or cats cow's milk.  It will give them digestive problems.  All the milk they ever needed was when they were nursing on their mother.
 
Provide fresh water for you cat every day.
 
 
the litterbox & house training
Cats are relatively easy to house train.  When you bring in your newly adoptive kittens (or cats), the first thing you should do is place them in the litterbox.  Their mother has likely taught them something about burying their wastes.  Briefly run the cat's paw through the litter, then leave him/her alone.  The cat should quickly get the idea.  If the kitten or cat misses, place the cat in the box again.  Do not punish the cat while it is learning this process.
 
<>litterbox guidelines:
>Use a clumping, unscented or low-scented litter.
>Provide your cats with a large litterbox.
[I use a large storage box.  Make sure the sides are not too high.]
>Place the box in a secluded room, in the corner.
>It is not necessary to put a cover on the litterbox.
>Do not place the box too close to your pets' food and water.
>Place a waste container with lid next to the box.
>line the waste container with a trash bag.
>Have a sturdy slotted scoop near by.
[I keep my scoop in a small bucket.  I find that very convenient.]
>Scoop the wastes from the box at leastone1 time a day, more often if possible.
>Keep a broom and dust pan near by.  Sweep when necessary.  I put the scattered litter back in the box.
This system works really well for me.  When the trash bag gets full, simply remove and take out on trash day.  So, I'm only using one trash bag per week. 
 
<>Reasons cats may not use the litterbox:
>You are not cleaning the litterbox often enough.
>The cat may be ill.
>The cat may be emotionally distraught.
>There may be a scent in the box your cat does not like.
>The cat was unable to get to the box.
>If you moved the box, maybe the cat is confused.
It's possible you need to take your cat to the veterinarian.
Do not punish you pet for something s/he likely has no control over!
And please, if your cat (or dog) has an accident, do not rub its nose in "it".  This practice is inhumane.  This does nothing!   It may even aggravate the situation.  Help your pet; teach your pet; don't punish him/her.
 
 
grooming
First, do not bathe your cat in water unless absolutely necessary! Cats have the instinct to swim, but innately hate being in water.  The only exception is the Abyssinian breed.  Cats do a great job bathing themselves.  Their saliva [an excellent cleaner with little odor], along with their tongues [like little washcloths with a nap] is more than adequate!
 
>Do not bathe your cat in water, except for medical purposes.
>Brush your short-haired cat about once a week.  You'll both enjoy it.
>Brush your long-hair cat every day.
>If matts occur that cannot be brushed out, carefully cut then out. 
>If desired, clip your pets' claws carefully (above the "pink"), with an instrument designed for clipping cat claws.
 
 
veterinary care
 
When to visit or consult the vet:
>yearly exam
>cat has trouble breathing
>unusual discharge from the eyes or nose
>lethargic behaviour
>frequent scratching which could be fleas, mites, or a skin ailment
>for no apparrent reason, cat stops using litterbox
>frequent urination
>diarrhea
 
 
accomodating the scratching instinct
Follow these guidelines, and scratching will not be a problem.  Accomodating the cat's instinctive need to scratch is worth it, when you think of the love and companionship you get back from your cat.  If you do not want to do this, then you really do not want a cat.  Claws is part of being a cat!!
 
Provide solid, well-made, sisal-covered scratching posts in all areas of your home.  I live in a three-leveled house, so I have a scratching post on each floor.  When you bring your newly adoptive kittens (or cats) into your home, show the animal where the posts are.  Place their paws on the posts, and encourage the scratching motion.  Put a little catnip on and near the post for the first few weeks.
 
When you buy new furniture, make sure the upholstery does not have a texture that would be enticing for scratching.  Stay away from materials that have a definite nap, material that feels rough, or have loosely-woven fabric.  Instead, opt for tightly-woven, or smooth material with no nap.  If you presently have scratch-enticing upholstery, simply cover the furniture with machine-washable blankets.
 
If you feel like you must trim your cats' claws, purchase a pair of claw trimmers.  Do not use human nail clippers!  Trim when your cat is in a calm mood.  Hold him/her between your legs.  Cut above the quick (the pink part).  Cutting into the pink is painful.  Be careful!  Some cats will get used to claw-trimming as part of its routine.  Some pet clinics offer claw-trimming services.
 
Then there's the declawing debate.  I am against declawing.  It's simply inhumane.  Consider the advantages and disadvantages:
 
<>advantages of declawing-  the cat owner never has to think about using scratching posts, nail trimmers, or constantly scolding the cat.  The scolding confuses the cat, since you're asking it to stop an instinctive behaviour.
 
<>disadvantages of declawing-
>post-surgical risks
>post surgical pain
>The cat has lost what would be equivalent to removing fingers, up to the second joint in humans.
>If the cat gets outdoors, it has minimal defenses.
>Some declawed cats are more likely to resort to biting when agitated or scared.
 
<>advantages for leaving the claws intact-
>Your cat will be happier, because s/he is 100% cat!
>S/he can fully act out the scratching instinct.  Even declawed cats will go through the scratching motion.  If the claws are there it's more enjoyable.
>I see my cats' claws as an amazing part of their anatomy.  Look at a drawing of a cat's claw, it's an impressive design.
>It's fun to watch your cat use its scratching post!  And they often do this before a play session.
 
 
playing
Provide fun and safe toys for your cats.  Join in on their play once in a while.  They'll love it.  Also notice, if you have two or more cats, they will create their own games.  I think it's amazing, and it's so much fun to watch them!
 
 
 
Anne Hunter Akers resides in Cincinnati with her husband Dave, and daughter Elizabeth in Cincinnati, Ohio.  Once a technician for the General Electric Company, she now gives private music instruction.  She is cellist and historian for a Cincinnati orchestra, serves as an officer for her national sorority, and is on the board of directors for 21stCenturyCARES, an international humane education organization http://www.21stcenturycares.org   She shares her home with two feline friends, Ivan and Hobbes.  They are black short-haired mutts with Oriental influences.  They were rescued from their stray mother, at age three months in 2003.  Ivan is a ham and constantly wants to be reminded that he is loved.  Hobbes, the more intellectual of the two is affectionate, and loves to nap with humans.  They are both playful and like hanging out with their human companions.  These brothers truly care about each other, and their humans.  questions? contact me: anne.akers@fuse.net
 
In memory of past pets:
Cally- Maine coon calico
Freddie- black & white DSH
Sam- bluepoint Siamese
Ceecee- calico DSH
Neptune- orange tabby
Nappy- grey DSH
Bunky- black & white DSH
 
Kryptonette- mixed golden hound
Natashia- black Afghan
The Hunter Farm dogs: Mario, Duke, Duchess
 
All the cats, dogs, snd horses my late brother Martin lived with, especially his dog Bulldozer.
 
 
In honor of these pets still living:
Ivan and Hobbes
TJ- the Hunter farm dog
the many beloved pets sharing life with my cousins Abby, Becky, Ben, and Ashley
the dalmatians of 21stCenturyCARES president Randy N. Warner, and author of To Look Within, which can be purchased at  http://www.amazon.com